Historic places of interest near Alicante

Local History

This is a re-write of a post from October 2025 with more photos and information added

As part of our attempts to create a life here in Spain, we joined a walking group based in our local town San Vicente del Raspeig - Senderisme San Vicent. Now Debbie and I are the only British people in the group (there are a couple of French too), but most people in the group only speak some English - in fact most prefer to speak Valencian rather than Castilian also! But we have over the last two and half years learned enough Castilian Spanish that we can now have short conversations and generally make ourselves understood and understand a lot of what is being said also - except the Valenciano which is still a mystery 😁

One of the groups walks is about 14km down the valley from San Vicente Fire Station winding down past the special forces base at Rabassa (Alférez Rojas Navarrete) to Alicante Cemetery and back.

Rabassa has been a military base since before the civil war and the route took us past a couple of observation bunkers which were positioned to cover the aproaches to both the base and airfield (where the university is today)

First view of bunker 1 silhouetted in front of Alicante 

Rear approach and view

View from the roof

Inside, just a simple circular position with roof, but there is cover under the lip to duck down into

Rear entrance

Bunker 2 from bunker 1

Bunker 2 approach

Bunker 1 from bunker 2

Inside similar to bunker 1 except the emplacement is a pipe with one access point and the main body is hollow allowing the occupant to duck into it

                                                                                rear access

views from the roof

View through the bunker looking towards the coast

                                                 Bunker 1 from below the escarpment

Bunker 2 from below

both bunkers from down in the valley (bunker 1 just visible on the far left)

Alicante Cemetery

Grave of  Miguel Hernández

Born in the town of Orihuela south of Alicante on 30 October 1910. A poet and playwright, who during the Spanish Civil War, actively defended the Second Republic with his combative and social poetry, from which iconic works such as "Viento del pueblo" were formed.

At the end of the war, he attempted to cross the border, but was detained and sentenced to death (later commuted to prison). Seriously ill with tuberculosis in the Alicante prison, he died on March 28, 1942, at the age of 31, leaving an immortal legacy like the "Nanas de la cebolla".

 For those of you who visit Alicante you will note the airport has been renamed in his honour.

Grave of Admiral Julio Guillen Tato 1897 - 1972

Born in Alicante 5 August 1897

Joined the navy in 1913 served on serveral ships of the line: Cruiser Reina Regente, Battleship Alfonso XIII, Cruiser Emperor Charles V, Battleship Espana, Destroyer Osado. Entered the Naval Aeronautics School in 1921 and from there served on the seaplane tender Dedalo, from whom he flew the airsjip Vicentico over Alicante. Served as an observer during the Rif War under the command of Alfredo Kindelan (future commander of the nationalist airforces). At the start of the Civil War he was imprisoned by the Republican Government as suspect and dismissed from the navy, he took shelter in the Polish Embassy and eventually made it to Portugal, but Francoist authorities considered him suspect too and did not reinstate him. Eventually in 1941 he was reinstated to the navy and eventually served as Director of the Naval Museum until his death in 1972. 

Memorial for The Boné Rebellion 

The Boné Rebellion was an uprising that took place in Alicante, from January 28 to March 9, 1844, against the liberal government of Gonzalez Bravo, which had been formed at the end of 1843 after the fall of Espartero`s Regency in July of that year. The rebellion, led by cavalry colonel and commander of the Carabineros (national police), Pantaleon Bone, consisted of a popular uprising of progressive liberal citizens who demanded a series of political, economic, and social improvements in response to the return to power of the moderates.

Boné arrived in Alicante at the end of January 1844 and took control of the city and nearby towns. The rebellion was brutally supressed and Boné along with many of his officers and co-conspiritors were executed by firing squad.

Grave stone of  a child killed during the bombing of the Alicante on 25th May 1938 😭

Memeorial to those killed in Alicante and buried in this mass grave

It should be noted this memorial is double sided with several hundred names inscribed along with the date of their deaths - everyone after the end of the Civil War 1939-45!

Memorial stone listing persons known to have been executed by the Nationalists

Memorial on the mass grave

The Army Airmobile Force (Spanish: Fuerzas Aeromóviles del Ejército de Tierra, FAMET), the army aviation branch of the Spanish Army, have been buzzing about all day today.

A couple of Super-Pumas with a Chinhook buzzed us virtually all day, several times single helos of one type or the other flew over and there was even a pair of Tiger attack helos!

I`m guessing there was a major training exercise to do with the Special Operations Command (Mando de Operaciones Especiales) or MOE possibly including the military range which is at the far end of the Agost valley.

Retreat to Dar Drius, Morocco 22/23 July 1921

Retreat to Dar Drius

Morocco 22/23 July 1921

Last Charge of El Alcantara by Augusto Ferrer-Dalmau

This is a fictional game based on historic reports of the desperate Spanish withdrawal East towards Melilla following what eventually became known as “El Desastre” at Annual. I`ve been doing a bit of research into El Desastre and about the desperate retreating columns and the heroics of the Alcantara Cavalry Regiment during the retreat, I decided to build a game based loosely on that.

I highly recommend readers check back and re-read the following articles for a broader understanding of the history:

https://baberonwargames.blogspot.com/2022/01/the-sacrifice-of-alcantara.html

https://baberonwargames.blogspot.com/2024/04/captain-arenas-last-stand.html

https://baberonwargames.blogspot.com/2023/09/a-spanish-camerone.html

Historic background

The advance of General Manuel Fernandez Silvestre`s forces into the Spanish western zone from the old presidio Melilla towards Alhucemas Bay had started well enough.

Silvestre had around 25,000 men and was well supplied, unfortunately he was a vain and conceited man with his rank and position due as much to his money and the influence of his circle of friends (including King Alfonzo XIII). Silvestre took little or no advice from his subordinates and even his superiors! As his columns advanced they built a large number of blocaos (blockhouses) plus fortified encampments and supply bases along their path; local tribes were paid off (but not disarmed). Silvestre decided to move further into the Rif than planned and, against the direct orders of General Damaso Berenguer Fuste, the Spanish High Commissioner of the protectorate, he crossed the Amekran River and built an outpost on top of Mt. Abarran, a holy site to the local Riffi.

Militarily Abd el-Krim who was trying to raise a rebellion against the Spanish must have welcomed the Spaniards advance into the Rif as it took them away from Melilla and stretching out their supply lines making them vulnerable. But then building a post isolated across the river from the bulk of the Spanish troops on top of a holy mountain which enraged the locals was a gift too good to ignore. His men acting with the aid of some native troops who betrayed their Spanish officers, attacked the outpost and nearly 200 Spaniards and loyal Regulares were killed; more importantly a battery of guns was captured along with large stocks of shells and small arms ammunition. Abd el-Krim used this success to gather more tribesmen to his banner with the promise of more victories and further loot.

What followed was a series of defeats that led one after the other, domino fashion, to one of the largest disasters to befall a European army in Africa. The next Spanish outpost to be attacked was Igueriben. Situated three miles from Annual this position was quickly surrounded and cut off from the main base. General Silvestre rapidly gathered what forces he had and rushed to Annual to rectify the situation. There followed several brave attempts to break the siege including two cavalry charges led by Silvestre himself, but the Rifeños (the Spanish word for Riff Berbers) were highly skilled and were now assisted by captured artillery and machine guns which caused heavy casualties and defeated every brave attempt to relieve the desperate defenders! The Rifeños stormed Igueriben and in so doing managed to isolate and cut off General Silvestre and his men from Melilla, Annual being situated in a valley and Iguerben actually overlooks it and dominating its approaches.

Finally on July 22nd, after several days with ammunition and supplies running dangerously low, General Silvestre gave the order to abandon Annual and for the Forces there in to try and fight their way back to the coast. What should have been an orderly withdrawal turned into a rout! Here accounts vary, with some stating that Silvestre was killed in combat, whilst others claim he committed suicide. Whatever the truth about the Spanish commander, his force was ill-prepared, and the Rifeños fell upon the fleeing Spanish soldiers, civilians alike, slaughtering all they caught.

My scenario

A Spanish column must make it`s way across the table despite attacks by Rifeños who want to stop and kill their enemies.

The column advances across the table at 6” per turn, the Riffi attackers can pop up all around the column chosen randomly by D8 (see the direction indicator below) every three turns, what turns up is governed by a random dice table (below), the harkas fight until they are destroyed or driven off. If they column can reach and cross River Kert, they achieve a victory (be it a Pyrrhic one in the long term).

There are also two blocaos on the route, the men from the Alcantara have orders to relieve these and rescue as many men from these positions as they can bringing them to join the column – adding more soldiers to defend the column possibly! However the Riffi have both positions surrounded at the start of the game.

A bonus mission is to rescue a downed pilot.

Riffi Harka arrival table (2D6)

2-4 no contact

5-6 1 x 10-man harka on foot

7 10-mounted Metalsa tribesmen

8 2 x 10-man Juramentados (men sworn to die in battle) on foot – this unit fights until everyone is killed and gets +1 in melee [this happens only once after which a 10-men harka on foot arrives]

9 2 x 10-mounted Metalsa tribesmen

10 10-man former Regulares (includes a marksman +1 to hit)

11 2 x 10-man harkas

12 10-man harka with a machine gun team

Spanish forces

Convoy Escort

2 platoons from Regimiento de Infanteria No68 “Africa”

These are my painted conversions (some arm and a head swap also) of Newline Designs Gurkhas

2 mounted troops from Regimiento de Caballeria No14 “Alcantara”

Barcelona Universal Model (BUM) SCW cavalry with head-swaps 

Warrior Miniatures SCW cavalry with head-swaps

1 dismounted troop from Regimiento de Caballeria No14 “Alcantara”

A mix of Bandera & Irregular Miniatures SCW

1 sección de ametralladoras from Regimiento de Caballeria No14 “Alcantara”

A mix of Bandera and Irregular Miniatures (the gun crew are head-swapped) the mules are B&B Miniatures 

Blocoa garrisons 

Each with:

1 platoon from Regimiento de Infanteria No42 “Ceriñola”

Signals and supply personnel

A mix of Newline Designs and Red Box British colonial troops

Pilot

Elheim Figures

Convoy

My Table

The game

Turn 1 The column formed up with the dismounted troop from El Alcantara in front, the two platoons from Africa in the center and rear and the two mounted Alcantara troops on the open right flank. I rolled the dice and the head of the column was ambushed by a platoon of traitorous former Regulares!

Turns 2-3 after receiving fire and taking casualties El Alcantara charge their foes and vicious melee results

On turn 3 the Rifeños rolled and a large harka of Juramentados appeared and attacked the front of the column

Turn 4 The melee at the front of the column reaches its climax and the former Regulares are put to flight

Upon seeing the Juramentados the second mounted troop from El Alcantara sound the bugle and charge

Turn 5 With the Regulares broken, what remains of the 1st^st mounted troop head towards the blocoa on the left side.

In front of the column, the dismounted Alcantara troop reforms (including a few mounted troopers who had lost their horses) and the column moves off once again. A chaotic melee develops between the Juramentados and the 2nd mounted Alcantara cavalry.

Turn 6 The Rifeños roll and they get a large body of mounted Metalsa tribesmen. One up the valley towards the column, the other down into the rear!

Meanwhile half the Juramentados and Alcantara cavalry are in a swirling melee, the other half slip around the melee but are shot to pieces by soldats for the Regimiento de Africa who had moved to cover the open right flank of the column!

Turn 7 The mounted 1st element of Alcantara surprise a group of Rifeños, killing some and putting the rest to flight. They link up with the blocao defenders and will be ready to move out next turn. The blocao commander sends orders across the valley by flag and heliograph giving orders to the other blocao to be abandoned and its garrison to head towards the track and link up with the main column.

The melee with the Juramentados continues, both sides lose men.

The Metalsa tribesmen attack up the valley ride into a gap between this melee and the reforming dismounted Alcantara troop, they attack the helpless civilians and wounded, killing some. The Alcantara and soldatos from “Africa” shoot down several riders.

At the rear of the column the Metalsa tribesmen ride into a world of hurt as the “Africa” rearguard is well set and hits then with withering fire, killing several and forcing the rest to break and ride away.

Turn 8 both blocaos begin their evacuation.

Finally the last Juramentado is killed, but they have proved a tough foe and taken quite a few Alcantara with them.

The Metalsa tribesmen continue hacking anyone they can (soldiers, civilians be they men or women) they are engaged by Alcantara and Africa soldiers, by the end of the turn they break off and ride away.

Turn 9 The Rifeños roll and get another unit of former Regulares, once again these appear in front of the column; which can now move again as it faces no direct attacks. I place the regulares in an ambush position down the trail.

Both Blocao garrisons are on the move, but the men from the right side are ambushed and lose some men, they respond very well and drive off their attackers.

Turn 10 every Spanish group is now on the move, the main column vanguard (Alcantara of course) comes under fire from the Regulares and loses a few men.

The soldatos of Regimiento de Infanteria No42 “Ceriñola” from the right side blocao move towards the sounds of rifle fire.

Turn 11 The main column vanguard now reinforced by soldatos from “Africa” exchange fire (and casualties) with the Regulares. At the end of the turn the Regulares are hit in the flank by the unit from “Ceriñola”, they take several casualties and are driven off opening the track for the main column.

Turn 12 The Rifeños roll and get yet more Metalsa tribesmen, both groups riding up the valley towards the column

The main column is moving again and at the end of the turn both units from Regimiento de Infanteria No42 “Ceriñola” have joined it.

Turn 13 the nearest band of Metalsa tribesmen ride into a world of hurt when riflemen from both Ceriñola and Africa catch them in the open, over half are killed and the rest turn and run.

In the center of the column more men from Ceriñola prepare to receive cavalry, troops from Africa and Alcantara also move to protect the front of the column.

Turn 14 the Metalsa tribesmen charge the Spanish infantry, a melee follows.

The rest of the column moves forward down the valley.

Turn 15 the Riffi roll but get no extra men, but those on the hill by the blockhouse on the left are forming up.

 

The Metalsa tribesmen are unable to break through to the column and driven off by the combined efforts of the Spanish infantry and cavalry.

The column moves down the valley.

Turn 16

The column is hit by long range rifle fire from the hill on the left with little effect (one casualty), the Spanish return fire (equally ineffective at long range)

The column carries on moving down the valley.

Turn 17

The Riffi on the left continue to fire at the column, moving closer down into the valley; their fire is again sporadic (they kill one soldato), but Spanish return fire takes two Berbers in return!

The column continues its retreat down the valley.

Turn 18

The Riffi roll and get two groups of infantry one at the head of the column one from the rear.

The only firing is on the Spanish left, where they continue to exchange fire with the advancing Berbers. The Berbers inflict 3 casualties on the Spanish, but return fire reduces them to half strength and they break off their attack!

The column is still retreating down the valley.

Turn 19

The Riffi at the front and rear of the column open fire! The rear shooting is ineffective, but the soldiers from Africa who are the column`s rearguard kill 2 Berbers! At the front of the column soldatos from Ceriñola take a couple of casualties, a wagon driver is also taken. The column is brought to a halt by this ambush!

Turn 20

At the rear of the column the Berbers can make no headway and lose another 2 men to the well placed soldiers from Africa.

In front the last mounted element of Alcantara charged the Riffi, the surprise and violence of their charge, plus good shooting from soldatos break their morale and they flee!!

Turn 21

The Riffi roll and get another unit of former Regulares at the head of the column.

At the rear, the firefight is over when the Berbers taken another casualty and fail their morale test.

The Column moves off once again, the lost Spanish pilot joins up with the column.

Turn 22

The former Regulares attack the head of the column, but find themselves up against soldatos from Ceriñola, Africa and Alcantara plus the Alcantara machine gun. They cause casualties but are cut to pieces and the survivors flee!

Turn 23

The column moves off for the first turn in ages not a single shot is fired!

Turn 24

The Riffi roll and get a single 10-men group, amazingly once again in front of the column!

The column advances down the track

Turn 25

Soldatos from Ceriñola, Africa attack the new group of Berbers!

The exchange of fire results in both sides taking casualties!

Turn 26

The Spanish launch a close-assault against the Berbers, the gods of dice reward their bravery and the Berbers are scattered!!

The column moves off once again.

Turn 27

The Riffi roll no encounter, the column moves on down the track, the river is within one move of the lead wagon (now driven by an Alcantara trooper)

Turns 28 & 29

The column moves unopposed down the track

Turn 30

Luck is with the Spanish and the Riffi roll no encounter once again, this means the entire column can now reach the river before the Riffi get to roll again - game over!

Victory for the Spanish, well at least a successful withdrawal to Dar Drius. But General Navarro decided not to defend the position and continue the withdrawal to Mount Arruit where he eventually surrendered to the Riffi on August 9.